08/11/2026
While editing this video, I got a reminder that exactly one year ago I made tacos again. So my taste buds seem to crave this time of year: the tropical summer, or the wild memories of my younger self in Central America. Whichever it is, I outdid myself this time.
Birria made from wild boar shanks and other tough cuts, like the sirloin heads. Both are full of silver skin, so it takes a while. If you’ve never tried birria tacos, find a good Mexican place and go. They’re full of flavor, you eat them with your hands, they’re sloppy and dripping everywhere, and damn, they’re good.
I started by toasting my spices: dried papaya seeds, which I use as pepper, a cinnamon stick, cardamom pods, chile pequín for the fire, and bay leaves. After a good toasting, I ground them for later. I browned the shanks in butter, and the brown butter flavor improves the end result, so don’t be scared of a bit of color. In the leftover butter I fried onion and garlic, and all of it went into the braising pot. My rosehip paste took the place of tomato paste, covered with wild boar stock and the ground spices. Then it went into the oven at 110-120°C until the meat dropped off the bone.
For the sweet corn tortillas: cook the cobs with the husk and silk on, since they add flavor. Once chilled, purée the kernels with salt, then mix with corn flour and a bit of wheat flour. Form balls and press them in a tortillera.
The other main part is the pico de gallo. It’s usually made with serrano or poblano peppers, but I went with celery instead, so call it my celery pico: tomatoes, red onion, celery, coriander, lime juice and salt.
Once the meat was soft enough to cut with a spoon, I removed it and the bones, puréed the braising liquid, and simmered it down to concentrate. Poured over the meat. Save some of the liquid: after frying the tortillas, dunk them in it and fry them again. That’s the birria way. Fill them with the meat, add the celery pico and lacto-fermented mango, and serve with limes and coriander leaves.
Maybe deep inside me there’s a Mexican after all. I’m not joking, this might be the best taco I’ve ever had.