03/08/2026
Buongiorno! Chef Chris here!
Italian Regions Americans Misunderstand — Part 3
Lazio (Rome)
Over the last two posts we’ve talked about Emilia-Romagna and Liguria. Today we arrive in the center of Italy — Rome, the capital and the heart of the region of Lazio.
Roman cuisine is famously direct. It relies on just a few bold ingredients: pecorino romano, guanciale, black pepper, and olive oil.
From those ingredients come four of Italy’s most iconic pasta dishes:
Cacio e pepe – pecorino romano and black pepper
Gricia – guanciale, pecorino, and black pepper
Amatriciana – guanciale, pecorino, and tomato
Carbonara – guanciale, egg, pecorino, and black pepper
Notice something missing?
Cream.
Despite what many menus in the United States suggest, authentic carbonara contains no cream whatsoever. The sauce is created by emulsifying egg yolks, pecorino romano, pasta water, and rendered guanciale fat. There is no cream in cacio e pepe either, yet menus across the US bastardize these two dishes almost as much as they do Alfredo - more on that below.
Roman cooking is about simplicity and technique, not excess ingredients. In fact, cacio e pepe, which on the surface seems like a very easy pasta to make, is in fact one of the hardest to make correctly and consistently. Even though it's just pasta water, pecorino, and pepper, the pasta water must have the right amount of starch and be just the right temperature in order to create the emulsion.
Which brings us to one of the most misunderstood dishes in Italian cuisine: Fettuccine Alfredo - a dish that has its origins in Rome, yet by and large, Romans want nothing to do with it.
1914, Roman chef Alfredo di Lelio created the dish for his pregnant wife when she was struggling to eat. The simple combination of fresh pasta, butter, and Parmigiano Reggiano was one of the few things she could tolerate.
Then, in 1920, Hollywood actress Mary Pickford and her husband Douglas Fairbanks were dining at Alfredo’s restaurant while on their honeymoon in Rome. They asked for something special, and Alfredo prepared that same dish.
They loved it so much that they returned to Hollywood and told their friends about “Alfredo’s sauce.” Yes, that's what the dish is actually called, Alfredo's Sauce, as in created by Chef Alfredo.
Soon the dish became a sensation among visiting actors and celebrities dining at his restaurant.
But when the story made its way back to Hollywood kitchens, something got lost in translation. Personal chefs tried to recreate the dish and interpreted the richness as coming from cream, which Alfredo himself never used.
And that is how the cream-heavy “Alfredo sauce” many Americans know today was born.
The original Roman version is far simpler — pasta tossed with butter, Parmigiano Reggiano, and pasta water to form a silky emulsion.
In fact, you can visit Alfredo alla Scrofa in Rome where Alfredo's Sauce is still prepared it tableside, finishing the pasta directly in a bowl with butter and Parmigiano Reggiano.
Note - Alfredo alla Scrofa was purchased in 1943 to Giuseppe Mozzetti, the restaurant's sommelier and Ubaldo Salvatori, its dining room manager. Chef Alfredo sold the restaurant name, allowing it to continue operating AND with its use of his signature dish. Today the restaurant is run by those gentlemen's great-grandchildren, Mario Mozzetti and Veronica Salvatori.
In 1950, Chef Alfredo opened another restaurant in Rome with his son Armando called Il Vero Alfredo (The Real Alfredo), still in operation today and run by Chef Alfredo's grandchildren.
Today, both restaurants claim to be "Home of the Original Alfredo's Sauce" and technically, both are correct.
Fun fact for Floridians and Disney/Epcot fans - as part of the original Epcot Showcase, Alfredo International (created by Chef Alfredo's son Armando), which had opened a similar restaurant in NYC's Rockefeller Center in 1977, partnered with Disney in 1982 on a 25 year contract to operate L'Originale Alfredo di Roma Ristorante in Epcot's Italy Pavilion. When it closed at the end of its contract on August 31, 2007, Alfredo’s at Epcot was the number twelve independent restaurant in annual dollar volume in the entire United States according to the trade publication Restaurants and Institutions.
Yet here's the thing - Alfredo was created in Rome and known worldwide - yet Italians, especially Romans loathe the very dish that is so associated with Italian cuisine in the US. Why? Because the world knows American fettucine alfredo, and not Alfredo's Sauce with Fettucine, the dish created by Chef Alfredo di Lelio.
All of which perfectly illustrates how Italian cuisine can be misunderstood, and a point of contention with Italians who fiercely protect their food culture.
Next we'll head north again to another misunderstood region: Tuscany.