Lézard Bleu labellisé Café de paysUne double distinction pour Le Lézard BleuLe 1er établissement héraultais labellisé Café de pays-Qualité Hérault est à VieussanGage de qualité et d'authenticité, les labels Qualité Hérault-Café Tourisme de terroir is about knowing which field your food came from
Rik Kat shouldn't be there, in an old house by a row of vineyards in a valley sided by steep crags. He
confronted the disaster by heading for the nearest bar where his tale won him job offers in a vineyard in nearby Vieussan. Eight years later, with a house, partner, kids and a restaurant and bar - Lézard Bleu - he describes it as his best mistake. I had his €12 lunch - smoked trout salad, lamb with olive mash, local cheese to finish or cherry soup prepared by his partner Manue. With it, I drank a lovely deep red called Pourquoi Pas from the local Mas des Cerisiers - Rik pointed out the vineyard. He is completely conversant with the terroir - where the cheeses come from, who makes the best wine, where to go for the herbs I've tasted on the lamb. Additionally, he has introduced Fair Trade produce. Rik's is part of a growing number of restaurants, chambres d'hôtes, wineries and cheesemakers that are clubbing together with the help of the tourist board to promote the concept of tourisme de terroir. Terroir is that very French idea of regional individuality. The soil and your connection to it should give the tourist a taste of something unique. The tourist office provides a list of "ambassadeurs" and "adhérents", a selected group of restaurateurs and B&B owners who are able to give you advice on the best in the area you're visiting. Rik points out two further local stops, a cheesemaker and a wine co-operative. AOC St Chinian comprises 20 villages and their brochure states "a determination to assert a strong identity" in a time of globalisation. But they so rejoice in their locale, that they can't have just "Languedoc-AOC St Chinian" on their bottles - every village is also determined to have its name on the bottle. Ironically, because of this, the AOC loses its identity. That's why consistent, boring, industrial brands like Hardy's and Kumala sell.
