03/10/2026
Litomyšl 🇨🇿
Ah, provincial Czechia. One of the joys of exploring this country is the number of magnificent historic towns you can visit.
There are certain motifs. A Zámek (château), a church with onion dome steeple, a rectangular central Náměstí (square) lined with painted gabled townhouses. Inevitably, a Pivovar (brewery) too.
Telč, Třeboň, Mělník, Litoměřice, Pelhřimov, Tábor, Humpolec, Kroměříž, Loket, Domažlice, Mikulov, Polička, Znojmo, Hradec Králové, Cheb. Just for starters. Enough here that it takes years to explore. But then, that's part of the joy.
Litomyšl is just off the main train line, requiring a 25 minute bus connection from Česká Třebová. These come and go frequently during the day. You're deposited by the chateau, a UNESCO world heritage site, because, of course they have one. Can't be letting the side down! This was the birthplace of composer Bedřich Smetana, whose origins you can follow on their tourist trail.
A short walk away is Veselka, a wonderfully low key Krčma type pub with a brewing operation. Not the typical bigger budget pub restaurant stuck on the main square. As it was autumn we plumped for Polotmavý ležák, semi-dark l***r which was full of toffee flavour.
After dropping down into town, explore the wonderful central square and views from the modern lookout tower over the town.
Amble along the town's stream, the water clear, clean and full of fish to Hostinec Za Vodou (Inn By The Water), a historic pub that is as local as it comes. A genteel, pretty exterior that could have been drawn by Josef Lada. Polička b**r for 36 crowns, and inside the rhythms of a tapster/server whose humour and charm slices through an otherwise quite male environment. It's a lovely pub though, somewhat of a throwback.
Make time for experiences like these when you visit Czechia. 🍻👍